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Making white in the photo look like real white. The act of neutralizing the color of the light source.
Black-body radiation: heat an object up and it emits red → orange → yellow → white → blue as it gets hotter.
| Light source | Temperature (K) | Apparent color |
|---|---|---|
| Candle flame | ~1800K | Deep orange |
| Incandescent bulb | ~3000K | Warm |
| Fluorescent (cool) | ~4000K | Neutral |
| Noon sunlight | ~5500K | White |
| Overcast | ~6500K | Slightly blue |
| Shade / blue hour | ~8000–10000K | Blue |
So far so good: higher K = cooler (bluer) light.
Pulling Lightroom's Temperature slider to the right (higher K) makes the photo warmer.
The reason: the slider is the value you're declaring for the source light's temperature. When you tell Lightroom "this photo was lit at 6500K," it applies a warming correction to cancel out the blueness.
Actual light Lightroom's correction Result
───────────── ────────────────────── ───────
3000K (warm) → slider 3000K → cool correction → image looks neutral
5500K (neutral) → slider 5500K → almost no correction → image looks neutral
8000K (cool) → slider 8000K → warm correction → image looks neutral
In short: physical K↑ = cooler light, slider K↑ = warmer result. That's the real reason it feels backwards.
Color temperature only covers the red↔blue axis. Real-world light isn't purely on that axis — fluorescents and LEDs introduce green casts, and twilight pulls magenta.
Tint = correction along the green-magenta axis. Slider left (green) ↔ right (magenta).
Common tint directions per source:
| Source | Correction direction |
|---|---|
| Fluorescent | Toward magenta (cancel green) |
| Sunrise / sunset | Slightly toward green (cancel magenta) |
| Blue hour / shade | Slightly toward magenta |
| Cheap LED | Case by case — usually magenta |
Tint is hard because it's harder to perceive a face leaning subtly green or magenta than it is to see a color shift on the warm-cool axis. Tricks:
Your workflow (AWB + RAW). Upside: you don't think about it at the shutter. Downsides:
Fix: pin WB on one shot in Lightroom and Sync to the rest of that scene's batch. Once per scene cluster.
Click on something in the image that should be neutral gray and Lightroom auto-balances. Good targets in portraits: the whites of eyes, gray shirts, gray pavement.
Click on a colored area (skin, leaves, clothing) and Lightroom will try to drive that color to gray, wrecking the whole image.